Sun Destinations

Chloe Cooper and I were asked to spend time blogging and tracking wildlife in the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve. Having spent time at nThambo Tree Camp, Africa on Foot and nDzuti Safari Camp; we knew what lay in store for us. Needless to say, we were delighted and overcome with glee at the prospect of spending 10 days on a “road trip” together.  nDzuti has fantastic food, nThambo has wooden treehouses on stilts and Africa on Foot offers incredible wilderness walking safaris. And, lest I forget, both Chloe and I will get to spend time with legendary wildlife photographer and ranger, Kevin MacLaughlin. Throw Isaac and Enoch (the Shangaan trackers) into the mix and you have the ultimate safari.

I wanted to write about our self-drive experience from O.R Tambo to the Kruger because it is an area often neglected. We give our guests directions to the camps but we have yet to describe the trials and tribulations of the journey. Before I delve into the wonders of the Klaserie, let’s chat about our road trip. You will have to forgive my lack of images – photos of potholes in Lydenburg and factories in Witbank weren’t worth the click of a button.

After disembarking from our flight and feeling overwhelmed with excitement, we managed to eventually settle down and collect our car from Budget Rent a Car.  An embarrassingly gawdy gold Toyota was bestowed upon us.  We hopped into the vehicle and headed out.

As we left O.R. Tambo airport we took the Boksburg turn-off. A quick 5 minutes later we slipped onto the Witbank/eMahaleni turn off (N4 or N12).  From here we drove straight along the innocuous, mind-numblingly boring N4 road for a good few hours. Even an amoeba would get bored with this stretch of road.

The first toll plaza is close to Middleburg. By this stage our caffeine addiction started rearing its ugly head, so we stopped at garage which served Vida coffee.This is the perfect stop for coffee snobs and city slickers who balk at the idea of instant cofffee with UHT Long Life milk. After going through the toll plaza (cost is R47.00) we continued driving the same straight route on the N4. The scenery here begins to get slightly more interesting and this region is considered to be the start of the Panorama route.

Between Belfast and Machadodorp is the incredible “Millys” restaurant. I recommend stopping here for lunch. It is a trout farm with exceptional views and great food. Adjacent to the restaurant is a farm stall boasting an array of African arts, crafts and local delicacies.  After Chloe bought a beaded necklace and I tried on all the safari hats, we continued along the same road going past Machadodorp and to the Machado toll gate.

 

 

We took the R36 to Lydenburg/Mashishing and the Schoemanskloof turn-off and headed in the direction of Ohrigstad. We drove through Lydenburg and eventually came across the Ohrigstad/Pilgrims Rest signboard. The board is located at a faded Stop street and you can’t miss it. Well, we missed it. But that’s only because we were talking too much.

The worst part of our journey was driving the Lydenburg and Ohrigstad stretch. Both Chloe and I felt like we were on a badly designed rollercoaster because of the potholes, which are notorious in this area. Drive slowly and carefully – the potholes will ambush you.

After driving for a couple of hours we approached an extensive, hilly pass called the Abel Erasmus pass. With its dramatic views of lichen covered mountains enveloping the road, its cascading waterfalls and breathtaking views; it’s was a welcome reward after a long drive. This pass actually links Limpopo and Mpumalanga and is still on the R36 (between Ohrigstad and Hoedspruit).  The pass follows the edge of the Blyde River Canyon and local workers sell their arts and crafts on the side of the road. The roads here are also tricky and certain sections have been washed away from landslides and rockfalls.

 

 

After driving through the Strydom Tunnel we took the R527 to Hoedspruit. Now here is where we made a minor error. Just before Hoedspruit there is a sign to Hoedspruit (R40)/Orpen Gate/Klaserie urging you to turn right. Do not take this turn-off ! If you find yourself driving past the silk farm you have taken the wrong route. We drove into Hoedspruit and took a right turn at the traffic lights, then left towards Hoedspruit airport.

We entered through the Timbavati control gate and drove towards the Enkule gate. We were actually meant to drop our car off at Hoedspruit Airport but it closed at 15:00. Our rangers met us and we went with them to camp. The Enkule gate, which leads into the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, charges a conservation levy of R140 and you will need to pay cash. If you decide to self-drive all the way to your camp then be aware of the speed limits and watch out for animals en route.

Africa on Foot and nThambo Tree Camp are roughly a 20 minute drive from the gate and nDzuti Safari Camp is about an hour. You will need to consult the camps for directions from the Enkule gate. Alternatively, pre-arrange a meet and greet at the gate and follow your ranger to camp.

The journey takes roughly 8 hours but is easy to navigate.  Leaving at 8 in the morning is a reasonable time and gives you time to stop for lunch at Millys.

After arriving, Chloe and I tucked into some Kleine Zalze Merlot, chatted to the rangers and retired to our wooden treehouse chalets.

Tomorrow is another day. Lets hope we have a successful day of wildlife viewing ! In the meantime, I recommend the Merlot…

 

 

 

Article written by Carolynne Higgins